The term sambal, I knew, referred to the spicy condiments found across Indonesia (and Malaysia and Singapore), and because Indonesia is made up of 17,508 islands with individual culinary traditions, I hoped to encounter and begin to understand an untold diversity of fiery riches.
, chef Brady Williams harvests the sakura, steeping them in vinegar or smoking salmon over their branches—experiments that find a sweet spot between Japanese and Pacific Northwest flavors.This is a new energy for the historic Canlis.

Founder Peter Canlis' first restaurant was on a beach in Hawaii.When he migrated to the Pacific Northwest in 1950, he settled the landmark in its current home on Queen Anne Hill.It's been the last word in Seattle fine dining ever since, passing through multiple generations of family ownership.

But Williams—an alum of Blanca in New York and FT33 in Dallas—shook up the classic when he took over the kitchen in 2015, bringing his Japanese heritage to bear on the menu.He amplifies barley porridge with green strawberries, sorrel, shiso, and curls of geoduck.

A barley crêpe folded around fermented cabbage has shades of okonomiyaki, with sauce Pierre, a Canlis classic, standing in for Kewpie mayo.
There are a few untouchables on the Canlis menu, including prawns warmed with butter and vermouth.Shun Classic 3.5-Inch Paring Knife.
, $91, originally $125.Shun Classic Blonde 8-Inch Chef's Knife.
Stainless Steel Spider Strainer.OXO Good Grips Medium Cookie Scoop.
(Editor: Ultra Luggage)